Today is the first day of the British Chess Championships. This week John and I will play in the under 125 section, and next week the under 100. We took 4 chess dvds with us to South Africa, and watched none of them! However, we did play some internet chess when we could and a couple of games on the last day. Not enough I fear.
Both of us played higher graded opponents this morning. John lost and I drew! Same start as last year. Otherwise the results seemed to go mainly with grade. I had a long but interesting game, with my opponent getting short of time coming up to both time controls. I didn't expect to win, but was more than happy with a draw.
Monday 30 July 2007
Sunday 29 July 2007
Kruger Park Safari
Our final four days in South Africa were spent at two private game lodges on the edge of the Kruger. The first, at Chitwa Chitwa involved a three hour drive from Hazy View, half of which was on unmade roads. We arrived shortly before lunch to wonderful rooms overlooking the waterhole.
Our first game drive left after tea and cake at 3.30pm. One of our first spots was a leopard, who we were able to follow for a while. I was really pleased about this as last time I was in the Kruger I had seen neither leopard nor cheetah. This was followed by a herd of elephants, complete with a baby. The little one was very cute, and still testing out how to use his trunk (fairly unsuccessfully). We also found a sleeping lion.
Dinner was in a boma. An outside area enclosed by a circle of mature trees. In the centre was a huge fire and we sat in a semi-circle of tables around the fire. The food was good and the setting perfect.
All too early (6.00am) we were woken for our morning game drive. Dressing quickly we headed off to the lapa for tea and rusks before getting onto the vehicles for our second drive. This morning we were tracking a white rhino. Our tracker ranger sat on a seat on the bonnnet of the vehicle whilst our range drove. After some time we finally came across the rhino, close to the road. It was an ideal photo opportunity, although sitting at the back of the land rover, with our seats hanging over the back, we did feel very vulnerable. (Rhino horns look very large when close up!). Later we again saw sleeping lions, elephant, impala and some Cape buffalo.
Then it was back to the lodge for breakfast. The central part of the day is left free for resting, game viewing from the decks etc. However, John and I opted to go for a game walk. We were taken out by one of the tracker ranger who told us about the various plants, how to recognise footprints and about the dung that we found. It was a fairly long walk and by the time we got back we were extremely hot and the swimming pool seemed like a good idea. It's unheated, but, once in, it was wonderful. It did amaze the bar manager - apparently it's not really used in winter!
The afternoon game drive found yet more sleeping lions and another leopard, wandering along the road. Also, zebra, kudu and yet more impala. (Impala are on every predators menu). The following morning's drive didn't throw up anything new. However, we did have our coffee overlooking a hippo pool.
After breakfast we headed off to our final destination - Shambalala (where the lion sleeps). We left our car at the Thornybush Game Lodge (Shambalala is on the Thornybank reserve) and were taken to on to our destination by Sebastian (our ranger) and Raymond (our tracker ranger). On the way we found out that we would be the only guests and Sebastian asked us which animals we wanted to see. Mum had yet to see giraffes close up and none of us had seen cheetah. We had also mentioned that we had seen more than enough sleeping lions. On arrival at the lodge we were upgraded to the presidential suite and given time to sort ourselves out before high tea at 3.00pm. Then it was out on the game drive with the aim of seeing cheetahs. Sebastian did not disappoint us and we were rewarded with 3 males lying in the grass. Then we saw three lionesses, and they were sitting up. Our first non-sleeping lions. They didn't disappoint us because they then moved off to hunt. However, as one was stalking she was spotted by impala and wildebeest, who then sounded a warning to others.
Our wake-up call came at 5.30am and by 6.00am we were off on another game drive. Suddenly Raymond pointed and we set off through the bush, dodging trees and shrubs as we went. We didn't know what he had seen, but eventually we found a group of white rhino, who we followed for a while. Sebastian then headed off to one of the dams where we found a whole herd of Cape buffalo. Many were in the water, but there seemed to be as many still on the land. As we drove towards them we were soon surrounded, an amazing experience.
The evening game drive saw us heading far to the south of the reserve as a herd of elephant had been spotted. They had split up, but we did see a few of them. On our way back we came across a group of lions sitting up in the grass by a road junction. Suddenly, there was a padding at the side of us and a male lion walked just past our vehicle. In all there were six lions - all awake and watching us.
Our final game drive started off routine, but turned into the best. Sebastian headed off to check where the cheetahs were as there was a possibility that they had gone under the fence to another reserve. The footprints were confusing, but Raymond thought that they had moved back into the thicker bush of our reserve. We headed off in that direction and, after some time, heard the mewing of one male cheetah. We set off in pursuit of it, stopping every so often and switching the engine off to listen again. It had gone deep into the bush and the only way to see it was to follow it. I now have a lot more respect for Land Rover Defenders - they really can go anywhere. After 30 minutes or so we finally found the cheetah, sitting on a hillock mewing for his friends. It is likely that the three were attacked by lions the night before and had been split up, now this one was trying to find his companions. We were treated to the thrill of the chase followed by the perfect photo opportunity.
All too soon it was time to leave, our time in South Africa over. We were sad to leave, John and I both love the country. John has good reason to - his parents met and married there and his brother was born there. We both want to return, but when...........
Our first game drive left after tea and cake at 3.30pm. One of our first spots was a leopard, who we were able to follow for a while. I was really pleased about this as last time I was in the Kruger I had seen neither leopard nor cheetah. This was followed by a herd of elephants, complete with a baby. The little one was very cute, and still testing out how to use his trunk (fairly unsuccessfully). We also found a sleeping lion.
Dinner was in a boma. An outside area enclosed by a circle of mature trees. In the centre was a huge fire and we sat in a semi-circle of tables around the fire. The food was good and the setting perfect.
All too early (6.00am) we were woken for our morning game drive. Dressing quickly we headed off to the lapa for tea and rusks before getting onto the vehicles for our second drive. This morning we were tracking a white rhino. Our tracker ranger sat on a seat on the bonnnet of the vehicle whilst our range drove. After some time we finally came across the rhino, close to the road. It was an ideal photo opportunity, although sitting at the back of the land rover, with our seats hanging over the back, we did feel very vulnerable. (Rhino horns look very large when close up!). Later we again saw sleeping lions, elephant, impala and some Cape buffalo.
Then it was back to the lodge for breakfast. The central part of the day is left free for resting, game viewing from the decks etc. However, John and I opted to go for a game walk. We were taken out by one of the tracker ranger who told us about the various plants, how to recognise footprints and about the dung that we found. It was a fairly long walk and by the time we got back we were extremely hot and the swimming pool seemed like a good idea. It's unheated, but, once in, it was wonderful. It did amaze the bar manager - apparently it's not really used in winter!
The afternoon game drive found yet more sleeping lions and another leopard, wandering along the road. Also, zebra, kudu and yet more impala. (Impala are on every predators menu). The following morning's drive didn't throw up anything new. However, we did have our coffee overlooking a hippo pool.
After breakfast we headed off to our final destination - Shambalala (where the lion sleeps). We left our car at the Thornybush Game Lodge (Shambalala is on the Thornybank reserve) and were taken to on to our destination by Sebastian (our ranger) and Raymond (our tracker ranger). On the way we found out that we would be the only guests and Sebastian asked us which animals we wanted to see. Mum had yet to see giraffes close up and none of us had seen cheetah. We had also mentioned that we had seen more than enough sleeping lions. On arrival at the lodge we were upgraded to the presidential suite and given time to sort ourselves out before high tea at 3.00pm. Then it was out on the game drive with the aim of seeing cheetahs. Sebastian did not disappoint us and we were rewarded with 3 males lying in the grass. Then we saw three lionesses, and they were sitting up. Our first non-sleeping lions. They didn't disappoint us because they then moved off to hunt. However, as one was stalking she was spotted by impala and wildebeest, who then sounded a warning to others.
Our wake-up call came at 5.30am and by 6.00am we were off on another game drive. Suddenly Raymond pointed and we set off through the bush, dodging trees and shrubs as we went. We didn't know what he had seen, but eventually we found a group of white rhino, who we followed for a while. Sebastian then headed off to one of the dams where we found a whole herd of Cape buffalo. Many were in the water, but there seemed to be as many still on the land. As we drove towards them we were soon surrounded, an amazing experience.
The evening game drive saw us heading far to the south of the reserve as a herd of elephant had been spotted. They had split up, but we did see a few of them. On our way back we came across a group of lions sitting up in the grass by a road junction. Suddenly, there was a padding at the side of us and a male lion walked just past our vehicle. In all there were six lions - all awake and watching us.
Our final game drive started off routine, but turned into the best. Sebastian headed off to check where the cheetahs were as there was a possibility that they had gone under the fence to another reserve. The footprints were confusing, but Raymond thought that they had moved back into the thicker bush of our reserve. We headed off in that direction and, after some time, heard the mewing of one male cheetah. We set off in pursuit of it, stopping every so often and switching the engine off to listen again. It had gone deep into the bush and the only way to see it was to follow it. I now have a lot more respect for Land Rover Defenders - they really can go anywhere. After 30 minutes or so we finally found the cheetah, sitting on a hillock mewing for his friends. It is likely that the three were attacked by lions the night before and had been split up, now this one was trying to find his companions. We were treated to the thrill of the chase followed by the perfect photo opportunity.
All too soon it was time to leave, our time in South Africa over. We were sad to leave, John and I both love the country. John has good reason to - his parents met and married there and his brother was born there. We both want to return, but when...........
Saturday 28 July 2007
Flight Problems
After an early start from Wilderness we flew from George to Johannesburg and then on to Nelspruit. Everything appeared to go well at George. We checked ourselves and our bags through to Nelspruit and enjoyed the views en route to Johannesburg. As we headed off to domestic departures at Johannesburg we happened to pass the baggage reclaim, and there, circling the belt on its own, was my case. We then had the problem of what to do with it! We took it across to the SAA desk for baggage problems, who told us to check it in upstairs at the main desk. At that point a porter arrived with a wheelchair (from where and why we don't know, other than my mother had her stick with her). He then took over, taking us up to check-in, jumping the queue to get my bag on the flight, and then delivering us to the gate. He more than earned his tip.
At the boarding gate, despite our seats having been booked months ago, and issued to us in George hours before, my seat was changed. I asked if John could sit with me, but was told to "see the cabin crew" aggresively. Fortunately, the one and only cabin crew was lovely and let John set with me at the front of the plane and then she looked after us for the remainder of the journey. Amazingly, all 4 suitcases arrived in Nelspruit on the same plane as us.
From Nelspruit we travelled to Hazy View for 2 nights before our safari. This gave us the opportunity to visit Blyde River Canyon. We were treated to amazing views at The Pinnacle, God's Window, the Potholes and finally the Three Rondavals. Whilst having lunch at the potholes, we were clearing our rubbish away, that included 3 apple cores. They were the last things left on the table when, quick as a flash, a vervet monkey dashed onto the table and put one in his mouth and grabbed one in each hand. He then shot up the nearest tree and sat eating them. (We're still trying to work out what he would have done if there'd been 4 apple cores).
At the boarding gate, despite our seats having been booked months ago, and issued to us in George hours before, my seat was changed. I asked if John could sit with me, but was told to "see the cabin crew" aggresively. Fortunately, the one and only cabin crew was lovely and let John set with me at the front of the plane and then she looked after us for the remainder of the journey. Amazingly, all 4 suitcases arrived in Nelspruit on the same plane as us.
From Nelspruit we travelled to Hazy View for 2 nights before our safari. This gave us the opportunity to visit Blyde River Canyon. We were treated to amazing views at The Pinnacle, God's Window, the Potholes and finally the Three Rondavals. Whilst having lunch at the potholes, we were clearing our rubbish away, that included 3 apple cores. They were the last things left on the table when, quick as a flash, a vervet monkey dashed onto the table and put one in his mouth and grabbed one in each hand. He then shot up the nearest tree and sat eating them. (We're still trying to work out what he would have done if there'd been 4 apple cores).
Friday 27 July 2007
Knysna and Wilderness - The Garden Route
From Franschoek we travelled to Knysna on the Garden Route. Although it was winter there were plenty of aloes in flower. It was a long drive, stopping in Swellendam for lunch. We arrived in Knysna in the middle of their oyster festival.
Our first full day was spent touring around the lagoon and heads. We were rewarded with a school of southern right whales swimming past when we were on the eastern head. (John and I had been whale watching at Walker Bay on our previous trip so we knew to look for the characteristic V-shaped plume of spray around large grey objects in the water).
Our second day we retraced our route from 2003 into the Grounveld Forest and the gold mines. We had a walk at Jubilee Creek and then it was on to Mother Holly's for lunch. It was good to walk in the forest and relax a bit from the more hectic side of sightseeing.
Our main reason for going to Knysna had been that Dad wanted to go on the Outeniqua Choo Choo, the only scheduled steam train in the country. Unfortunately there had been a landslide near Wilderness last year so, instead of running from Knysna to George, the train now ran from George to Mossel Bay. It was now much easier to do the trip from Wilderness, so the Cango Caves, which had been planned for Wilderness, were covered with a large detour on the way from Knysna. The route took us through the ostrich farming area of Oudtshoorn and then on through the Klein Karoo. It was well worth the detour.
The Choo Choo is still as enjoyable as ever, although the route is a little less spectacular without the Knysna lagoon and the Kayman's river crossing. The return trip was completed with a tour of the railway museum in George - steam locomotive after steam locomotive. There were also photos and carriages of the royal train that King George VI, Queen Elizabeth and the princesses travelled on when they visited South Africa in 1947.
Our first full day was spent touring around the lagoon and heads. We were rewarded with a school of southern right whales swimming past when we were on the eastern head. (John and I had been whale watching at Walker Bay on our previous trip so we knew to look for the characteristic V-shaped plume of spray around large grey objects in the water).
Our second day we retraced our route from 2003 into the Grounveld Forest and the gold mines. We had a walk at Jubilee Creek and then it was on to Mother Holly's for lunch. It was good to walk in the forest and relax a bit from the more hectic side of sightseeing.
Our main reason for going to Knysna had been that Dad wanted to go on the Outeniqua Choo Choo, the only scheduled steam train in the country. Unfortunately there had been a landslide near Wilderness last year so, instead of running from Knysna to George, the train now ran from George to Mossel Bay. It was now much easier to do the trip from Wilderness, so the Cango Caves, which had been planned for Wilderness, were covered with a large detour on the way from Knysna. The route took us through the ostrich farming area of Oudtshoorn and then on through the Klein Karoo. It was well worth the detour.
The Choo Choo is still as enjoyable as ever, although the route is a little less spectacular without the Knysna lagoon and the Kayman's river crossing. The return trip was completed with a tour of the railway museum in George - steam locomotive after steam locomotive. There were also photos and carriages of the royal train that King George VI, Queen Elizabeth and the princesses travelled on when they visited South Africa in 1947.
Wednesday 25 July 2007
Cape Winelands
From Cape Town we moved on to Stellenbosch for 2 days. This required wine tasting, at Boschendal, Simonsig, Beyerskloof and Rustenberg. At Simonsig we sat outside in the sun, sipping our wine, with a new wine appearing every 10-15 minutes. Definately the way to relax. At Rustenberg we were guided through the tasting with special shaped glasses that you rolled on the counter-top to air the wine. Just as on our honeymoon we bought 2 bottles of their Brampton Viognier - which has the most wonderful aftertaste of apricots.
The trip had been scheduled for us to be in Franschoek on a Saturday. On our honeymoon we had accidentally visited Haute Cabriere for the cellar tour conducted by Achim von Arnhem. He only does the Saturday tour and is a real character. With Dad being very into wine we couldn't let this opportunity miss. It was everything that we had hoped. Informative and entertaining. I got to open a bottle of champagnois wine with a sabre this time - I still have the mounted cork. We followed the visit up with lunch in his restaurant - very good.
The rest of our 3 days in Franschoek were fairly relaxing, involving great food in the evening (it is the food capital of South Africa) and visiting the Huguenot museum and monument.
The trip had been scheduled for us to be in Franschoek on a Saturday. On our honeymoon we had accidentally visited Haute Cabriere for the cellar tour conducted by Achim von Arnhem. He only does the Saturday tour and is a real character. With Dad being very into wine we couldn't let this opportunity miss. It was everything that we had hoped. Informative and entertaining. I got to open a bottle of champagnois wine with a sabre this time - I still have the mounted cork. We followed the visit up with lunch in his restaurant - very good.
The rest of our 3 days in Franschoek were fairly relaxing, involving great food in the evening (it is the food capital of South Africa) and visiting the Huguenot museum and monument.
Tuesday 24 July 2007
Cape Town Part 2
Our second day in Cape Town was the only rain that we saw over the whole 3 weeks that we were in South Africa. Rather a contrast to the England. It turned into a relaxing day, with visits to the Victoria and Alfred waterfront and Kloof Street.
Sunday, our third day, we visited the Jewish Museum and the Holocaust Museum. Very interesting and very moving. It gave us a good idea of some of the history of the country and the development of commerce there. We learnt about the establishment of ostrich farming in Oudsthoorn, a town we visited on the way to the Cango Caves later in our trip.
On Monday we did the round tour of the Cape Peninsular. Chapman's Peak drive had finally been reopened (it had been closed for 3 years due to a landslide), so unlike on our honeymoon we were able to do a complete circuit. I managed to conquer my fear of heights and make it to the top at Cape Point. Then it was on to Boulder's Bay and the African penguin colony. The penguins had babies of a variety of ages, all fluffy and cute, so plenty of photo opportunities from the boardwalks. Finally it was on to Simonstown for coffee and cake - just as we did on our honeymoon.
Our final full day in Cape Town was spent at the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens on the slopes of Table Mountain. Even in winter it is worth a visit. We took to golf buggy tour and we rewarded with a view of an eagle owl resting in a tree. We'd never have found it without the botanist showing it to us.
Sunday, our third day, we visited the Jewish Museum and the Holocaust Museum. Very interesting and very moving. It gave us a good idea of some of the history of the country and the development of commerce there. We learnt about the establishment of ostrich farming in Oudsthoorn, a town we visited on the way to the Cango Caves later in our trip.
On Monday we did the round tour of the Cape Peninsular. Chapman's Peak drive had finally been reopened (it had been closed for 3 years due to a landslide), so unlike on our honeymoon we were able to do a complete circuit. I managed to conquer my fear of heights and make it to the top at Cape Point. Then it was on to Boulder's Bay and the African penguin colony. The penguins had babies of a variety of ages, all fluffy and cute, so plenty of photo opportunities from the boardwalks. Finally it was on to Simonstown for coffee and cake - just as we did on our honeymoon.
Our final full day in Cape Town was spent at the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens on the slopes of Table Mountain. Even in winter it is worth a visit. We took to golf buggy tour and we rewarded with a view of an eagle owl resting in a tree. We'd never have found it without the botanist showing it to us.
Monday 23 July 2007
Cape Town
We arrived in Cape Town for our three weeks in South Africa and spent 5 nights there. Fantastic. As the flight was overnight, we intended to pick up the hire car, head up to our accomodation and then have an easy day. Nothing could be further from the truth. The tablecloth was off Table Mountain and our hosts reccommended that we went straight up and made the most of the clear, sunny day.
It was stunning at the top. Last time John and I were in South Africa was on our honeymoon and we had only about an hour before the cloud came down again. This time we were able to walk right around the top on one of the longer pathways and see the city and peninsular from all sides. Mum managed the walk too, despite having two false hips, a false knee and a sciatic nerve playing up! Only hiccup was when she went to sit on a rock and missed the rock completely and fell over. Fortunately she didn't try to stop herself and just ended up bruised. We made up for this by having hot chocolate and cake in the cafe at the top - must have one of the best views of any cafe!
That evening we wandered down the road to where we knew there were some reccommended restaurants. By the time we got to Manolo, Mum felt that she couldn't walk any further, so that was where we stopped. It was a great choice. They had a new chef a couple of months ago who is also known as 'the alchemist'. (None of this we knew when we walked in!). I had never had springbok before, let alone springbok with ice cream! Believe me, it works. Pudding - gorgonzola ice cream, almond cake etc. It is also amazing. Coming from England it made me think of Heston Blumenthal. Being in South Africa I could afford to eat in Manolo, I can't afford the Fat Duck, although I have wanted to sample that style of cuisine for a long time.
After a long trip and an active afternoon, to be in a restaurant with fantastic, innovative food; attentive service and a quiet, refined atmosphere was just what we needed.
It was stunning at the top. Last time John and I were in South Africa was on our honeymoon and we had only about an hour before the cloud came down again. This time we were able to walk right around the top on one of the longer pathways and see the city and peninsular from all sides. Mum managed the walk too, despite having two false hips, a false knee and a sciatic nerve playing up! Only hiccup was when she went to sit on a rock and missed the rock completely and fell over. Fortunately she didn't try to stop herself and just ended up bruised. We made up for this by having hot chocolate and cake in the cafe at the top - must have one of the best views of any cafe!
That evening we wandered down the road to where we knew there were some reccommended restaurants. By the time we got to Manolo, Mum felt that she couldn't walk any further, so that was where we stopped. It was a great choice. They had a new chef a couple of months ago who is also known as 'the alchemist'. (None of this we knew when we walked in!). I had never had springbok before, let alone springbok with ice cream! Believe me, it works. Pudding - gorgonzola ice cream, almond cake etc. It is also amazing. Coming from England it made me think of Heston Blumenthal. Being in South Africa I could afford to eat in Manolo, I can't afford the Fat Duck, although I have wanted to sample that style of cuisine for a long time.
After a long trip and an active afternoon, to be in a restaurant with fantastic, innovative food; attentive service and a quiet, refined atmosphere was just what we needed.
Sunday 22 July 2007
Yeovil Congress
Life had been hectic - preparing for a trip to South Africa with my parents to celebrate their Golden Wedding. As a result this blog took a back seat for a while. We arrived home yesterday after a fantastic trip, but more of that later.
Yeovil was our last congress before the trip, a lovely, friendly congress. We have found a quiet, tranquil campsite about 20 minutes drive away. It's good to get back in the evening and get the charcoal oven going. (Once we've finished cooking it also provides heat in the tent).
This time John played and I looked after the books. Unfortunately he didn't do as well as normal (too much on his mind?). The congress takes place in a primary school with plenty of parking and space outside. The open and major are in the gym, whilst the other sections are in the school hall. It can therefore get interesting coming up to time control, with only one official arbiter, but as John and I have both passed our arbiter's exams we step in to help out at that time.
It was good to see all the 'usual suspects' again, probably the last tournament we will all play in before the British Championships in Great Yarmouth.
Yeovil was our last congress before the trip, a lovely, friendly congress. We have found a quiet, tranquil campsite about 20 minutes drive away. It's good to get back in the evening and get the charcoal oven going. (Once we've finished cooking it also provides heat in the tent).
This time John played and I looked after the books. Unfortunately he didn't do as well as normal (too much on his mind?). The congress takes place in a primary school with plenty of parking and space outside. The open and major are in the gym, whilst the other sections are in the school hall. It can therefore get interesting coming up to time control, with only one official arbiter, but as John and I have both passed our arbiter's exams we step in to help out at that time.
It was good to see all the 'usual suspects' again, probably the last tournament we will all play in before the British Championships in Great Yarmouth.
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