After an early start from Wilderness we flew from George to Johannesburg and then on to Nelspruit. Everything appeared to go well at George. We checked ourselves and our bags through to Nelspruit and enjoyed the views en route to Johannesburg. As we headed off to domestic departures at Johannesburg we happened to pass the baggage reclaim, and there, circling the belt on its own, was my case. We then had the problem of what to do with it! We took it across to the SAA desk for baggage problems, who told us to check it in upstairs at the main desk. At that point a porter arrived with a wheelchair (from where and why we don't know, other than my mother had her stick with her). He then took over, taking us up to check-in, jumping the queue to get my bag on the flight, and then delivering us to the gate. He more than earned his tip.
At the boarding gate, despite our seats having been booked months ago, and issued to us in George hours before, my seat was changed. I asked if John could sit with me, but was told to "see the cabin crew" aggresively. Fortunately, the one and only cabin crew was lovely and let John set with me at the front of the plane and then she looked after us for the remainder of the journey. Amazingly, all 4 suitcases arrived in Nelspruit on the same plane as us.
From Nelspruit we travelled to Hazy View for 2 nights before our safari. This gave us the opportunity to visit Blyde River Canyon. We were treated to amazing views at The Pinnacle, God's Window, the Potholes and finally the Three Rondavals. Whilst having lunch at the potholes, we were clearing our rubbish away, that included 3 apple cores. They were the last things left on the table when, quick as a flash, a vervet monkey dashed onto the table and put one in his mouth and grabbed one in each hand. He then shot up the nearest tree and sat eating them. (We're still trying to work out what he would have done if there'd been 4 apple cores).
Saturday, 28 July 2007
Friday, 27 July 2007
Knysna and Wilderness - The Garden Route
From Franschoek we travelled to Knysna on the Garden Route. Although it was winter there were plenty of aloes in flower. It was a long drive, stopping in Swellendam for lunch. We arrived in Knysna in the middle of their oyster festival.
Our first full day was spent touring around the lagoon and heads. We were rewarded with a school of southern right whales swimming past when we were on the eastern head. (John and I had been whale watching at Walker Bay on our previous trip so we knew to look for the characteristic V-shaped plume of spray around large grey objects in the water).
Our second day we retraced our route from 2003 into the Grounveld Forest and the gold mines. We had a walk at Jubilee Creek and then it was on to Mother Holly's for lunch. It was good to walk in the forest and relax a bit from the more hectic side of sightseeing.
Our main reason for going to Knysna had been that Dad wanted to go on the Outeniqua Choo Choo, the only scheduled steam train in the country. Unfortunately there had been a landslide near Wilderness last year so, instead of running from Knysna to George, the train now ran from George to Mossel Bay. It was now much easier to do the trip from Wilderness, so the Cango Caves, which had been planned for Wilderness, were covered with a large detour on the way from Knysna. The route took us through the ostrich farming area of Oudtshoorn and then on through the Klein Karoo. It was well worth the detour.
The Choo Choo is still as enjoyable as ever, although the route is a little less spectacular without the Knysna lagoon and the Kayman's river crossing. The return trip was completed with a tour of the railway museum in George - steam locomotive after steam locomotive. There were also photos and carriages of the royal train that King George VI, Queen Elizabeth and the princesses travelled on when they visited South Africa in 1947.
Our first full day was spent touring around the lagoon and heads. We were rewarded with a school of southern right whales swimming past when we were on the eastern head. (John and I had been whale watching at Walker Bay on our previous trip so we knew to look for the characteristic V-shaped plume of spray around large grey objects in the water).
Our second day we retraced our route from 2003 into the Grounveld Forest and the gold mines. We had a walk at Jubilee Creek and then it was on to Mother Holly's for lunch. It was good to walk in the forest and relax a bit from the more hectic side of sightseeing.
Our main reason for going to Knysna had been that Dad wanted to go on the Outeniqua Choo Choo, the only scheduled steam train in the country. Unfortunately there had been a landslide near Wilderness last year so, instead of running from Knysna to George, the train now ran from George to Mossel Bay. It was now much easier to do the trip from Wilderness, so the Cango Caves, which had been planned for Wilderness, were covered with a large detour on the way from Knysna. The route took us through the ostrich farming area of Oudtshoorn and then on through the Klein Karoo. It was well worth the detour.
The Choo Choo is still as enjoyable as ever, although the route is a little less spectacular without the Knysna lagoon and the Kayman's river crossing. The return trip was completed with a tour of the railway museum in George - steam locomotive after steam locomotive. There were also photos and carriages of the royal train that King George VI, Queen Elizabeth and the princesses travelled on when they visited South Africa in 1947.
Wednesday, 25 July 2007
Cape Winelands
From Cape Town we moved on to Stellenbosch for 2 days. This required wine tasting, at Boschendal, Simonsig, Beyerskloof and Rustenberg. At Simonsig we sat outside in the sun, sipping our wine, with a new wine appearing every 10-15 minutes. Definately the way to relax. At Rustenberg we were guided through the tasting with special shaped glasses that you rolled on the counter-top to air the wine. Just as on our honeymoon we bought 2 bottles of their Brampton Viognier - which has the most wonderful aftertaste of apricots.
The trip had been scheduled for us to be in Franschoek on a Saturday. On our honeymoon we had accidentally visited Haute Cabriere for the cellar tour conducted by Achim von Arnhem. He only does the Saturday tour and is a real character. With Dad being very into wine we couldn't let this opportunity miss. It was everything that we had hoped. Informative and entertaining. I got to open a bottle of champagnois wine with a sabre this time - I still have the mounted cork. We followed the visit up with lunch in his restaurant - very good.
The rest of our 3 days in Franschoek were fairly relaxing, involving great food in the evening (it is the food capital of South Africa) and visiting the Huguenot museum and monument.
The trip had been scheduled for us to be in Franschoek on a Saturday. On our honeymoon we had accidentally visited Haute Cabriere for the cellar tour conducted by Achim von Arnhem. He only does the Saturday tour and is a real character. With Dad being very into wine we couldn't let this opportunity miss. It was everything that we had hoped. Informative and entertaining. I got to open a bottle of champagnois wine with a sabre this time - I still have the mounted cork. We followed the visit up with lunch in his restaurant - very good.
The rest of our 3 days in Franschoek were fairly relaxing, involving great food in the evening (it is the food capital of South Africa) and visiting the Huguenot museum and monument.
Tuesday, 24 July 2007
Cape Town Part 2
Our second day in Cape Town was the only rain that we saw over the whole 3 weeks that we were in South Africa. Rather a contrast to the England. It turned into a relaxing day, with visits to the Victoria and Alfred waterfront and Kloof Street.
Sunday, our third day, we visited the Jewish Museum and the Holocaust Museum. Very interesting and very moving. It gave us a good idea of some of the history of the country and the development of commerce there. We learnt about the establishment of ostrich farming in Oudsthoorn, a town we visited on the way to the Cango Caves later in our trip.
On Monday we did the round tour of the Cape Peninsular. Chapman's Peak drive had finally been reopened (it had been closed for 3 years due to a landslide), so unlike on our honeymoon we were able to do a complete circuit. I managed to conquer my fear of heights and make it to the top at Cape Point. Then it was on to Boulder's Bay and the African penguin colony. The penguins had babies of a variety of ages, all fluffy and cute, so plenty of photo opportunities from the boardwalks. Finally it was on to Simonstown for coffee and cake - just as we did on our honeymoon.
Our final full day in Cape Town was spent at the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens on the slopes of Table Mountain. Even in winter it is worth a visit. We took to golf buggy tour and we rewarded with a view of an eagle owl resting in a tree. We'd never have found it without the botanist showing it to us.
Sunday, our third day, we visited the Jewish Museum and the Holocaust Museum. Very interesting and very moving. It gave us a good idea of some of the history of the country and the development of commerce there. We learnt about the establishment of ostrich farming in Oudsthoorn, a town we visited on the way to the Cango Caves later in our trip.
On Monday we did the round tour of the Cape Peninsular. Chapman's Peak drive had finally been reopened (it had been closed for 3 years due to a landslide), so unlike on our honeymoon we were able to do a complete circuit. I managed to conquer my fear of heights and make it to the top at Cape Point. Then it was on to Boulder's Bay and the African penguin colony. The penguins had babies of a variety of ages, all fluffy and cute, so plenty of photo opportunities from the boardwalks. Finally it was on to Simonstown for coffee and cake - just as we did on our honeymoon.
Our final full day in Cape Town was spent at the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens on the slopes of Table Mountain. Even in winter it is worth a visit. We took to golf buggy tour and we rewarded with a view of an eagle owl resting in a tree. We'd never have found it without the botanist showing it to us.
Monday, 23 July 2007
Cape Town
We arrived in Cape Town for our three weeks in South Africa and spent 5 nights there. Fantastic. As the flight was overnight, we intended to pick up the hire car, head up to our accomodation and then have an easy day. Nothing could be further from the truth. The tablecloth was off Table Mountain and our hosts reccommended that we went straight up and made the most of the clear, sunny day.
It was stunning at the top. Last time John and I were in South Africa was on our honeymoon and we had only about an hour before the cloud came down again. This time we were able to walk right around the top on one of the longer pathways and see the city and peninsular from all sides. Mum managed the walk too, despite having two false hips, a false knee and a sciatic nerve playing up! Only hiccup was when she went to sit on a rock and missed the rock completely and fell over. Fortunately she didn't try to stop herself and just ended up bruised. We made up for this by having hot chocolate and cake in the cafe at the top - must have one of the best views of any cafe!
That evening we wandered down the road to where we knew there were some reccommended restaurants. By the time we got to Manolo, Mum felt that she couldn't walk any further, so that was where we stopped. It was a great choice. They had a new chef a couple of months ago who is also known as 'the alchemist'. (None of this we knew when we walked in!). I had never had springbok before, let alone springbok with ice cream! Believe me, it works. Pudding - gorgonzola ice cream, almond cake etc. It is also amazing. Coming from England it made me think of Heston Blumenthal. Being in South Africa I could afford to eat in Manolo, I can't afford the Fat Duck, although I have wanted to sample that style of cuisine for a long time.
After a long trip and an active afternoon, to be in a restaurant with fantastic, innovative food; attentive service and a quiet, refined atmosphere was just what we needed.
It was stunning at the top. Last time John and I were in South Africa was on our honeymoon and we had only about an hour before the cloud came down again. This time we were able to walk right around the top on one of the longer pathways and see the city and peninsular from all sides. Mum managed the walk too, despite having two false hips, a false knee and a sciatic nerve playing up! Only hiccup was when she went to sit on a rock and missed the rock completely and fell over. Fortunately she didn't try to stop herself and just ended up bruised. We made up for this by having hot chocolate and cake in the cafe at the top - must have one of the best views of any cafe!
That evening we wandered down the road to where we knew there were some reccommended restaurants. By the time we got to Manolo, Mum felt that she couldn't walk any further, so that was where we stopped. It was a great choice. They had a new chef a couple of months ago who is also known as 'the alchemist'. (None of this we knew when we walked in!). I had never had springbok before, let alone springbok with ice cream! Believe me, it works. Pudding - gorgonzola ice cream, almond cake etc. It is also amazing. Coming from England it made me think of Heston Blumenthal. Being in South Africa I could afford to eat in Manolo, I can't afford the Fat Duck, although I have wanted to sample that style of cuisine for a long time.
After a long trip and an active afternoon, to be in a restaurant with fantastic, innovative food; attentive service and a quiet, refined atmosphere was just what we needed.
Sunday, 22 July 2007
Yeovil Congress
Life had been hectic - preparing for a trip to South Africa with my parents to celebrate their Golden Wedding. As a result this blog took a back seat for a while. We arrived home yesterday after a fantastic trip, but more of that later.
Yeovil was our last congress before the trip, a lovely, friendly congress. We have found a quiet, tranquil campsite about 20 minutes drive away. It's good to get back in the evening and get the charcoal oven going. (Once we've finished cooking it also provides heat in the tent).
This time John played and I looked after the books. Unfortunately he didn't do as well as normal (too much on his mind?). The congress takes place in a primary school with plenty of parking and space outside. The open and major are in the gym, whilst the other sections are in the school hall. It can therefore get interesting coming up to time control, with only one official arbiter, but as John and I have both passed our arbiter's exams we step in to help out at that time.
It was good to see all the 'usual suspects' again, probably the last tournament we will all play in before the British Championships in Great Yarmouth.
Yeovil was our last congress before the trip, a lovely, friendly congress. We have found a quiet, tranquil campsite about 20 minutes drive away. It's good to get back in the evening and get the charcoal oven going. (Once we've finished cooking it also provides heat in the tent).
This time John played and I looked after the books. Unfortunately he didn't do as well as normal (too much on his mind?). The congress takes place in a primary school with plenty of parking and space outside. The open and major are in the gym, whilst the other sections are in the school hall. It can therefore get interesting coming up to time control, with only one official arbiter, but as John and I have both passed our arbiter's exams we step in to help out at that time.
It was good to see all the 'usual suspects' again, probably the last tournament we will all play in before the British Championships in Great Yarmouth.
Monday, 28 May 2007
Camping and chess
Over the summer, well from May to the end of September, we save money on accomodation by camping. When we decided on this we drew up a list of what we wanted in a tent. John - to be able to stand up. Me - somewhere to eat at a table if it was raining and quick to put up. We went around various displays looking at tents and fell in love with a Colorado 5 - a five man tunnel tent. It was over our original budget, but we negotiated a good deal and it has been perfect for our needs.
Having a van means that we are anything but lightweight campers. We have plastic chests of drawers on wheels for clothes and cooking equipment. Last year we started using electric hook-up, so now we can heat the tent at the beginning and end of the season and have toast for breakfast! Last year we managed to spend all but 2 weeks in the tent over August and September, so it has to be a home from home.
It is lovely, after a long day looking after the bookstall or playing chess to return to the tent and sit outside with a glass of wine, whilst barbequeing. June is great, with the longer days and we often sit out until after the sun has gone down.
Having a van means that we are anything but lightweight campers. We have plastic chests of drawers on wheels for clothes and cooking equipment. Last year we started using electric hook-up, so now we can heat the tent at the beginning and end of the season and have toast for breakfast! Last year we managed to spend all but 2 weeks in the tent over August and September, so it has to be a home from home.
It is lovely, after a long day looking after the bookstall or playing chess to return to the tent and sit outside with a glass of wine, whilst barbequeing. June is great, with the longer days and we often sit out until after the sun has gone down.
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